PARIS FASHION WEEK AW 13/14 – John Galliano @ The Centorial

The third and final Paris Fashion Week show that I was so very lucky to attend was none other than John Galliano. To say that I was giddy with excitement, is an understatement.

I have always loved John Galliano for his opulent fabrics, structural shapes, outlandish make-up and accessories, and beautiful colours.

Of course, John Galliano, sadly, is no longer the Creative Director of John Galliano the fashion brand. After his highly publicised drunken anti-Semitic abusive incident in the Marais cafe two years ago, he was ousted from his own label – which he founded in 1993 – and also Dior.

The label since then, has been directed by Cheltenham-born Bill Gaytten, who has worked with Galliano for 23 years. Gaytten has a different background from most fashion designers, having been trained as an architect at the Bartlett School of Architecture at University College London, he soon realised that fashion was where his heart was and moved into fashion.

His collection for Autumn/Winter 13/14 was very different to my expectations of a “Galliano” collection. It was a very sophisticated, wearable, chic collection with a dark colour palette of blues, blacks and plum. Even the printed silk fabrics were subdued. There was no loud theatrical pieces but instead tapered trousers and belted jackets in heavy wool. The boldness came in pleats and folds of silks of his tailored dresses.

At the end of the show Gaytten popped up with a simple sweater, shirt and jeans, galaxies away from the theatrical Galliano who bowed dressed in a pirate outfit.

It was a beautiful collection, and I have to commend Gaytten for the bravery for moving away from the theatrics that is Galliano, it will be interesting to see if he can build his own aesthetic to the John Galliano brand.

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